Please Note: I will not accept responsibility for the quality of your own creation, nor for it’s use. You, as the builder/pilot are solely responsible for your own actions regarding the construction and use of any machine built and/or flown with the aid of information gathered from this web site.
More Throttle
box
box
It should be fairly easy to fabricate with a bicycle brake lever, brake cable, push-to-make button and some wiring.
box
The hand-held throttle unit will allow you to alter the power/rpm during you flight. This in turn will control your pitch, so with no power applied you will slowly descend at the wing’s glide ratio. At full power you will climb and at somewhere in the middle you can maintain level flight. The addition of a kill switch allows you to stop the engine within a couple of seconds.
Throttle unit
throttle modification
throttle modification
The last item in this section is hooking up the kill switch circuit, this is quite a simple operation. Just attach one wire to ideally the engine or the chassis (ensuring a good earth). Then fit the other wire from the kill switch to the spare connector where the low-oil sensor wire was fitted (see picture). You might want to fit a bullet/bulb type connector to the end of the wire to ensure a snug fitting connection or you could snip the low-oil sensor connector off and either solder or 'choccy-block' them together.
close up of throttle hook-up
throttle modification
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What's it all about?

The principal aim that underlined the Eggmotor development was the need for a simple, reliable and above all, affordable paramotor.

Take a humble 6.5hp industrial engine and transform it into a +12hp paramotor power unit capable of over 50kg thrust with a large propeller and reduction drive.

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Close up of cable attachment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Throttle
Throttle Extra
An easy method to connect at the engine end is to modify the standard throttle lever and utilize it as a bracket for the cable end. Strip the throttle lever assembly down and cut the lever along the line as shown in the first picture below. Then mount it onto the fuel tank bracket as shown on the second picture using a spare screw/bolt. You will need a cable adjuster to thread through the other hole in your make-shift bracket in order to fit the cable through. You maybe required to open up the hole a little bit in order to fit the adjuster. I've used a cheap brass one and fitted a locking nut to the other side. It is just a matter of fixing the inner cable to the 'J' shaped governor arm as close to the end (near throttle rod/spring) as possible. If you fix it too close to the governor arm pivot point then the throttle will be difficult to actuate due to lack of leverage. I used a small nut/bolt set up threaded through one of the many holes in the governor arm and basically 'pinched' the inner cable in place.